October 24, 2007

Two for the Road: Romantic destinations two hours or less from London

TRAVEL EXTRA: Hamilton -- a natural beauty

by Jill Ellis-Worthington
Sun Media

Steel town - the home of Stelco, the TiCats, and Tim Hortons - has a softer, natural side that many visitors don't know about.
If you want to take a short journey from London for a romantic getaway, Hamilton may not be the first destination that comes to mind, but perhaps it should be near the top of that list.

A beautiful fall weekend is the perfect time to plan a short getaway to this city that often times has an undeservedly rough reputation.

Autumn colors are spectacular when wandering the Bruce Trail, which is accessible from various points around the city.

One option is to park at the south end of Dundurn Street at the foot of the mountain and take the Chedoke Radial Trail to the right. A little way down, there's an access to the Bruce Trail that wanders back toward Dundurn.

This is an easy-to-walk path that takes you through the woods. For something more challenging, walk a little further down the Chedoke Radial Trail and take the wooden stairs to your left (just before the trail intersects with the golf course and its dire warnings of impending harm from errant balls and carts).

This trail leads to one of the many waterfalls in and around Hamilton. These natural wonders - some modest and others marvelous - are some of the area's hidden gems that will surprise and delight weekend-awayers. In this case, there are a couple of cascades at the top of the staircase that are just visible through the tree cover. (Number 23 on the Cascades and Waterfalls of Hamilton map - Lower Cliffview Falls) The path curves to the right, following the golf course, and climbs further up the mountain. With loose rocks and slippery patches, this path is more challenging, but also more beautiful. This is a good choice for couples looking for a moderately challenging hike.

The Royal Botanical Gardens offers natural hiking areas with easier strolling paths, like the Hendrie Valley. There's a waterfowl observation area at the entrance to this trail as well.

While other cities in the Golden Horseshoe have been quicker to exploit their waterfront areas with tourism and housing, Hamilton will soon catch up. For a romantic lakeside walk, try the Waterfront Trail. Stop for a glass of wine or a hot coffee at Williams Pub (overlooking the West Harbour Marina) for a break on the walk, or if you drive to the harbour, it's at the end of James Street. Just a stone's throw away, check out the Canada Marine Discovery Centre, so you'll know how great it is next time you visit Hamilton with kids. This is definitely one of the coolest, interactive museums I've ever seen.

While Hamilton doesn't lack for big hotels, my partner and I stayed at Rutherford House, one of the city's many charming bed and breakfast establishments. Owned and operated by David and Janis Topp, this 1880s Victorian home offers two charming bedrooms and a scrumptious breakfast. Janis prides herself on her diverse selection of a.m. edibles.

Our breakfast was a healthy fuel up for a day of hiking, starting with fruit and yogurt, then featuring a main course turkey sausage, sweet potato latkes, and whole wheat toast made from David's homemade bread.

The two bedrooms are large, and each has its own ensuite. Janis is also a professional decorator, so the Rutherford features lush and pleasing surroundings. There are modern conveniences that make the stay even more pleasant, like an inroom mini-fridge to keep your end-of-the-hike libation cold and in-room coffee maker for a first cup while enjoying an early morning snuggle under one of the Rutherford's feather duvets!

One of the best things about staying at Rutherford House is its location in the historic Durand district. If one or both of you are into architecture or if you just love amazing old houses, this is a great place to see homes ranging in design from Georgian to Tudor, from Victorian to Edwardian.

The Bruce Trail is accessible from the Rutherford, but so is downtown for romantic dinner options. Stroll down to Hess Village and try Sizzle Steakhouse, excellent food in a minimalist chic atmosphere. Above the restaurant reside four dance bars/lounges. Beware 30+ duos, Hess Village can be overrun with students later in the evening. If you're up for clubbing the night away, this is fine, but if you want to be a little more mellow try Slainte for Celtic flare or The Cat and the Fiddle for an evening of jazz.

Locke Street offers boutique shopping opportunities aplenty, with antiques and home furnishing stores lining both sides of the street. If you work up an appetite while shopping, stop into Beasley's for some of the biggest and best chicken wings we've ever enjoyed.

Walk on the wild side of Hamilton and enjoy a spectacular weekend fall colors and hiking for your romantic weekend away.

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If you go:

Hamilton: www.tourismhamilton.com

Rutherford House: www.rutherfordbb.com

Royal Botanical Gardens: www.rbg.ca

Find music and nightlife: www.jamilton.ca (see links)

Two for the road is an occasional series of travel stories - quick getaways with a romantic twist.



WEB: www.tourismhamilton.com

WEB: www.rutherfordbb.com

WEB: www.jamilton.ca

WEB: www.rbg.ca